Simple Steps to Better Die-Cast Model Kit Building     Detailing the Classic Metal Works 1970 Ford Mustang Boss 302      (click this Link for PDF Version)
STEP 1.) Before starting, always check to make sure all the parts are there and most importantly READ THE INSTRUCTIONS. The CMW 1970 Ford Mustang Boss 302 Model Kit is a nice kit right out of the box, but with just a few easy techniques we can turn this model into something special..
STEP 1a.) Specialty books and magazine articles are excellent sources of information for detailing a scale model car. Everything from interior, engine compartment and body details for almost any prototype car can be found.		STEP 1b.) First, we need to gather up a few products to make this transformation happen. All the products listed can easily be found at your local hobby shop or e-retailer. Products needed for detailing the Chevelle SS 396 are; 1) Bare Metal foil, 2) an assortment of good quality red sable paint brushes, 3) a #11 hobby blade knife and several new #11 blades, 4) Devcon 5 min. epoxy or similar 5 minute epoxy and Cyanoacrylate (AC or what is known as super glue), 5) a small Phillips-head screwdriver, 6) Pin vise and assorted sizes of small drill bits, 7) The following Testors Model Master Enamel or Acryl Paints paints - Ford Engine Blue, Aluminum Plate Metalizer, Stainless Steel Metalizer, Silver, Semi-Gloss Black, and Turn Signal Amber 8)Tamiya Clear Red paint, 9) Painter’s Masking tape (I used Frogtape brand), 10) Cotton swabs (Q-Tips), 11) An assortment of Micro Brushes, 12) Ken’s Fuzzie-Fur, 13) Preston’s pre-wired distributor kit.
STEP 2.) This 1/24th scale model kit contains a high gloss clear-coat painted die-cast metal body with great graphics. It also contains parts molded in clear , black, and chrome-plated plastic, a set of low profile tires, and a set of large 5 spoke chrome rims.		STEP 3.) Let’s start with the engine and the compartment. As you can see the engine compartment is pretty plain looking. It needs some help in detailing to make it look more realistic and really stand out.
STEP 4.) The engine compartment detailing is started by using Bare Metal foil to cover the valve covers and make them look like polished cast aluminum. Bare Metal foil is a very thin metal material that must be handled carefully. First and foremost you need to use a NEW #11 blade in the knife. If not the delicate foil will tear and you will waste a lot of material. Start by cutting a small piece of foil that covers the area, cut the foil just slightly oversize so you cover the entire valve cover surface. Once you have positioned the foil over the part, rub it down with a Q-tip , or what is called ”burnishing” the foil until smooth. The excess material is then cut and trimmed off with your NEW # 11 hobby knife and blade. Openings for caps are now cut out before the final burnishing is done. Once the caps are trimmed carefully burnish the foil down tightly to all the details with Q-tip. Trick: Use a Micro-Brush to burnish the foil over fine details and engraving for an even better result .		STEP 5.) To add to a more realistic look, spark plug wires can be added. I used Preston’s pre-wired distributor kit for this application. All the hard work is done for you. First pick a spark plug color that appeals to you, Preston’s has many. Mark the area where the distributor will be installed, now is the time to use your reference material to locate the correct location on the engine part. Drill a mounting hole using a drill bit to match the diameter of the part’s stem and a pin vise. Cement the distributor in place. Now, mark and drill holes in the engine to install the wires using the .020 pinvise drill bit. The black tubing in the kit is for spark plug boots. It is cut into 3/16ths inch lengths and then placed over each spark plug wire. The wire is then inserted into the drilled hole and pulled to the desired length. Cement the wire and boot to the engine and let it dry. The excess wires can then be trimmed of on the bottom of the engine. Hint: 5 min. Devcon epoxy works great for this.
STEP 6.) ASmall parts can be detailed using a fine brush and assorted colors of paint from Testors Model Master. Here Aluminum Plate Metalizer and Brass Metalizer were used.		STEP 7.) Take a look at the side-by-side photo showing how realistic the engine compartment on the left is compared to the stock part on the right.
STEP 8.) The interior lacks contrast and a realistic appearance, but we can make it much better using paint and some simple techniques. By using combinations of the part’s original plastic color and spraying contrasting colors you will be able to create realistic combinations. For this interior I created a three tone effect. Any base plastic color areas that will remain unpainted are masked off with Bare-Metal foil, or gentle release Frogtape painter’s tape. Now you are ready to spray paint the first or base coat of color to this small area. Apply thin coats of color allowing about 10-15 minutes per coat. Don’t try to cover the plastic color in one coat. The paint will be too thick and hide the texture of the plastic.		STEP 9.) After the first color has dried at least an ½ hour, the second area to be covered is masked off, in this case Bare Metal foil was used because it will leave a sharper edge and very little paint build-up. The second color is then applied. Use one our two very light coats of paint when doing this, you do not want to hide the base color, this is what creates the depth and texture effect. Repeat this procedure for more effects… but don’t over do it!
STEP 10.) When removing the masking material, use caution. You don’t want to scratch the paint. The use of small tweezers is very helpful when lifting the edges of the tape. Patience and carefulness will be rewarded with a professional looking result.		STEP 11.) After the paints have dried at least a day, the final detailing in the interior can be done. The finishing touch which will set your model apart is adding “carpeting” to your model’s interior floor pan. The first thing to do is figure out what color your carpeting will be. Check your reference material for suggestions. I use Ken’s Fuzzi-Fur made specifically for creating “carpet” effects. It comes in a rainbow of colors to match your color scheme. You can also use flocking material available a craft stores. Now that you have chosen a “carpet” color purchase a bottle of Testors flat enamel paint in a color that matches the Fuzzi-Fur or flock. To apply the Fuzzi-Fur or flocking purchase a small hobby or craft squeeze bottle with a pointed tip, pour a small amount of the Fuzzi-Fur or flocking into the bottle. This will act as your applicator and allow for more control. Work in small areas at time… about 25% of the total floor space at any one time. This is crucial to NOT making a mess and/or wasting paint and fuzz/flock. Apply a wet coat of flat enamel paint on the floor. While the paint is still wet, squeeze the bottle of flocking or fur over the paint. Blow this material over the paint generously until well covered. The excess material is then blown off.
STEP 12.) The completed painted interior is astonishingly transformed into a highly detailed scale model… and it wasn’t difficult at all!!!		STEP 13.) Any small chrome detailing on door panels, consoles, or dashes can be detailed using Bare Metal foil. The foil is cut to approximate size, then placed over the area to be chromed. It is then pressed down, “burnished”, using a cotton Q-Tip over the detail. The excess is trimmed with a #11 hobby knife blade and knife. The foiled area is then burnished once more. HINT: Use a Micro-Brush to pick up smaller and more delicate detailing. Use the same technique you used with the Q-Tip.
STEP 14.) The die-cast metal body is already painted and the graphics are pad printed. The bright chrome trim is painted in silver. Overall the body looks pretty good. But to really upgrade the trim and give the body that “Wow” factor, use Bare Metal foil on all the trim. This step will make the model more realistic looking.		STEP 15.) Bare Metal foil will be used to cover all the silver on the bright trim details. The foil is measured and cut to strips with widths of ¼ inch. Use a hobby knife with a NEW #11 blade to do this otherwise the thin foil will tear. Gently lift the foil off the backing and apply it by hand to the silver painted trim areas. Press the foil down to stick, then trim off the excess with the #11 hobby knife blade. Cut as close to the edge of the detailed portion as possible. The excess is taken off by using the hobby knife or a tooth pick.
STEP 16.) After the excess Bare Metal foil is removed press the remaining foil down using a cotton Q-Tip and also polished to a bright gleam. This step is called “burnishing”.		STEP 17.) The outside edges can be pressed down further using a Micro Brush. This will give a sharper appearance to the edges and help bring out the small details and fine engravings.
STEP 18.) A fine-tipped (000) round sable brush and some semi-gloss black paint are used to detail the windshield wiper blades. Some models do not have this detailed molded in, so skip this detail.		STEP 19.) The side marker lamps need to be address. First step is to foil them. Use the same techniques as explained in the previous foiling step. After you finished foiling, timming, and burnishing Use a fine paint brush and fill in the lens area with Model Master Turn Signal Amber for the front lamps, and use Tamiya Clear Red for the rear lamps. The raised outer trim should be left as is to represent the chromed trim on the actual car.
STEP 20.) Now on to the chassis. I painted on the details using a fine round red sable paint brush. I used Model Master Ford Engine Blue for the engine oil pan, Model Master Aluminum Plate Metalizer for the transmission, Model Master Stainless Steel Metalizer for the exhaust pipes, Model Master Silver for the mufflers and gas tank, and Model Master Semi-gloss Black for the frame and suspension details.		STEP 21.) The chrome spoke rims that come with the kit are great, but by painting the spokes a semi-gloss black or another complimentary color, the wheels become a real stand-out feature of the total look of the model. I used Model Master Semi-gloss Black for the Boss because the body color is black. Using a fine round sable paint brush I carefully painted only the spokes and the left the rims Chrome plated… Nice!
STEP 22.) Read the instructions carefully, and re-assemble the model. Now you have a completely unique model that doesn’t look like the rest! When assembling parts to the body, Devcon 5 min epoxy (or any other brand of 5 minute epoxy or AC glue. Take a look at the photo comparing the standard '70 Mustang Boss 302 model kit next to the model we just enhanced. Wow! What a difference a little paint, foil, and some simple techniques can make! You needn’t be a master modeler to produce a masterpiece of a model… these simple techniques can be used on any die-cast metal kit. Send us your pictures we’d love to see them!